Wednesday, June 04, 2008

Black Amethyst Spring Coat


Black Amethyst, AKA Burda February 08 #117

I’m not really sure what I may say about it that will be useful... Dear Laura’s review was fantastic and there’s really not much I may add! The pattern is very well drafted. It was of course awesome (for me ;) ) that it was designed for petites! No need to tweak the pattern.
I was tremendously inspired by Laura’s own experience, doing a Hong-Kong seam finish like her, topstitching the collar and lapels as she did too – this did help tremendously with the collar’s floppiness. Thanks so much, Laura. :)
The only other change I added was to lengthen the sleeves from 3/4 to full length, to have the ability of wearing this with a long-sleeved top.
This pattern requires a lot of work, precision, and dedication... Especially if you’re a sucker for punishment and decide to make it in a slippery, wrinkled taffeta, which therefore cannot be pressed during the sewing. This made the cutting, tracing, measuring and sewing so much more difficult. In the end, though, I found it well worth it. I love the combination in textures of the vertical wrinkles and the horizontal topstitching.
A word on the fabric: Seb and I chose it together on one of our precious weekend walks around Paris (this one comes from le marché Saint-Pierre, premier étage, I think). It is a wrinkled taffetas woven with two different threads: the warp is an iridescent amethyst, and the weft is black. I know each picture shows a slightly different hue; well, they're all here, in real life.
This coat was a first in several respects:
- inseam pockets (oh, I love the pockets! I love the ability to put my hands in the pockets while I strut about Paris)
- Hong-Kong seam finish (with aubergine satin bias tape)
- shoulder pads
- stand-up collar (this was the most difficult step in the whole process – I spent soo much time and ripped many a seam getting that darn collar right!).
Giving myself this challenge at a time where my work is itself such a huge endeavour, might have been a little much, and there were times when I thought so. But I don't regret it. I like a challenge!
This is one of my favourite creations so far - one of those I'm most proud of, and enjoy wearing most.

When I arrived at my parents' wearing this last week, my mother insisted on photographing me in the garden right away. She also said, at once - what a pity Mamie isn't there to see it.
I still haven't come to terms with my grandma not being here anymore. I've been through mourning before, but losing Mamie a year ago has been the most difficult thing in my life. It still is.
However, I've realized I need to do thing as well as if she were there, and could see them. Sewing is both a way to try and get closer to her, it is my own special way of remembering her (she comes alive again in my mind while I sew, I can see and hear her); but it is also a cause for renewed sadness, that there is so much that we cannot share anymore.


Seb knows so well how important this project was to me, that he gave me an amethyst necklace and earrings set for my birthday, to match. How thoughtful is this?
The set comes from Etsy, too, meaning it is handcrafted and one of a kind. A perfect match indeed.





Simplicity must have a special carrier from their warehouse to Paris, because the order I placed a couple of days ago, and which I was mentioning earlier today, was waiting for me at the PO tonight! Miss Cutie approves of the patterns.

I'll be away and offline until next week... So long, everybody!

58 comments:

Erica B. said...

That coat is absolutely stunning!

Sigrid said...

As I said on PR just now, it's a fabulous coat. The colour is so beautiful, and the special things you got from Seb are special.

I wish you strength with the loss of your grandmother.

Pirouette said...

Gorgeous! You should be so proud of your awesome coat! :-D

Adrienne said...

HOW GORGEOUS!!!!!!!

LauraLo said...

I'm glad I could help, but Isabelle, you didn't need my help... This trenchcoat is so beautiful, the colour looks stunning on you, and it's so well done! Bravo, ma belle, c'est merveilleux!

Claire said...

Beautiful! Thank you for sharing with us.
I'm sending thoughts your way regarding your grandmother. Mine passed in 1992 and It still gets to me. She too was a special person and I will miss her always.

Jennifer/OH said...

The coat is amazing. I hear my dollies asking for a coat just like this. I have a scrap of dark blue crinkly tafetta that would be perfect. Right now I am craving a Butterick pattern for a dress #5206,if you get a chance to look at their website.
I still hear the voices of my grandparents after over a decade of them gone foorm the earth. I don't think that feeling ever passes and in a way I am glad to still have them close to me, if only in my mind and heart and not in real-life.

Kathryn said...

Congratulations on a stunning coat. You are certainly a seamstress of enviable skill and patience. I love moire fabrics. I should get out some of my moire silk and sew something, but like you AFTER July. Right now things are too crazy.

I hope your dissertation goes well and your degree leads to a career that you love.

Lori said...

Beautiful coat, the color is stunning. What a sweet, thoughtful guy you have. Good luck with your dissertation.

karenv said...

Your coat is just fabulous Isabelle! You are amazing to make that alongside all the hard work you're doing on your thesis.

{{{{Hugs}}}} - you are in my thoughts :)

Michelle said...

OH GORGIOUS!I can see it in a velvateen or satin for evening wear,its lovely.Grandma would be proud:)

gatorgirl4325 said...

Oh, it was worth the wait!! Your trench is beautiful - and the jewelry with it makes it that much more special.

Kim said...

I just had to stop and agree with everyone else, that coat is absolutely stunning. You are an amazing seamstress, your Mamie would *definately* be so proud. :D

stacysews said...

Gorgeous!!

peacockchic said...

Lovely!! I really like the color choices

ViRginiE said...

Très joli manteau!

Lindsay T said...

Oui, très joli et dramatique!

KayB said...

Ah well, that's the reason this coat is on my to-do list as well. It's simply gorgeous and you did a great job!

mermaids said...

awesome coat! perfect for paris....

teri

Flo said...

Eh bien Bichette, il est merveilleux et te va très bien!! J'adore quand je te vois si resplendissante!!
Grosses bises

Heather said...

All I can say about your spring coat is: WOW, stunning, amazing. The colours are perfect for you and it suits you well.

I feel for you in the loss of your Grandmother, mine died 21 years ago and I still get a lump in my throat when I think about her and speak to my daughter about the lady she's named after.

Have a great week off.

Cennetta said...

You'll created a spendid version of this coat. I love the fabric and color; it's very flattering and rtw.

Shannon said...

Beautiful coat - what a labour of love!!

Gabrielle said...

A beautiful coat, Isabelle, and it suits you. I was touched by your thoughts on your Grandmother. I lost mine a few months ago, and it's almost unbearable at times. We were also very close, and I think of her constantly.

Summerset said...

Gorgeous! It is perfect for spring/summer. You have such a thoughtful husband, too!

anita said...

Gorgeous coat! I can see why it is one of your most favorite creations. I'll bet your grandma is smiling down on you.:)

Good luck with finishing up your dissertation!

Teddylyn said...

This is lovely--I can see why you are pleased to wear it! You did a fabulous job and the coat looks perfect on you.

Thanks for sharing the project!

Lynda in LV

Christina said...

Oh Isabelle! Your coat is perfect. I can just picture you on the streets of Paris in it. I'm sure your grandmother would be proud of your fine work.

Vicki said...

Oh Isabelle, how beautiful!!!!!

Mardel said...

What a beautiful coat. You did such a beautiful job on and it looks wonderful on you. One wouldn't know that the fabric was difficult or that there were several firsts in your completed garment. Just fabulous.

Karen said...

This is one of those rare and gorgeous garments that looks even better on a person than on the dress form. Your coat turned out amazing - I love the color on you (and good job, Seb, for the matching jewelry) and like you I like the vertical wrinkles and horizontal stitching. You may not get a lot of sewing done while working on your dissertation, but everything you do is beautiful.

Catherine said...

Isabelle, tu peux être fière de toi, ton manteau est magnifique, c'est presque de la French haute-couture, bravo!!

Barbara said...

Wow, Isabelle! It is a stunning coat, and an achievement to be proud of!! :D

Concetta said...

Your coat is so beautiful Isabelle! And what a darling Seb was to give you the amethyst necklace and earrings to match. You have a great guy there. : )

{Hugs} I know how hard it is to lose a grandparent... I still miss my dear nonno who's been gone for over 5 years now.

loopylulu said...

Every version I see of this jacket makes me itchy to make one too. Thanks for your words on working with the wrinkled taffeta. Completely beautiful!

Linda said...

Your coat is stunning! It is perfect for Paris (at least in my imagination). I know I would want that coat too if I had the chance to stroll the Paris streets. Your feelings on sharing your sewing with your Mamie is touching. I think that she is there with you on each stitch. It is wonderful that you have found a way to connect with her.

Wendy said...

Fantastic coat! I love the colour on you and the sewing details are exquisite! Congrats on a wonderful job :-D

melissa said...

This is gorgeous! You've done an amazing job on it, and the colour is perfect on you. I'm even more in awe that you made it in such fussy fabric, which makes any project ten times more frustrating!!

Claire said...

Isabelle, thank you for stopping by my blog and leaving a message. I will miss your posts while you are busy, but I thank you for leaving us with eye candy to look at.

Marji said...

The trench is perfect, such a great color and fabric for you. And your fit is fabulous. Well Done!

Alexandra said...

Absolutely gorgeous! You look wonderful in it! I love the ever-changing color.

Rachel said...

That coat is incredibly gorgeous!!! Love you kitty.

Cathy said...

So very beautiful. Love how the color changes with movement and light. Super-kudos to Seb!

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

Isabella - the coat is stunning! I am glad that you love wearing it because it is so YOU!

Clare said...

Congratulations on a truely great achievement, I have too often stayed in my comfort zone when dressmaking - I think the colour really suits you, and the coat looks wonderful .

Sharon said...

Isabelle, the coat is simply gorgeous!

Tracy said...

GORGEOUS...thist coat is amazing, Isabelle! The fabric is really luxurious, it really makes the coats. And your amethyst jewelry is a lovely accent!! So great you have Lil' Miss Cutie to help choose the patterns...decisions, decisions ;o) Happy weekend, my friend ((HUGS))

paco peralta said...

Isabelle .- nice trench, is a very versatile model for the summer. Ahhh. and color is very beautiful too. "Kity not know who choose .....""". greetings. Paco

Meg said...

This is probably the prettiest thing I've seen on a sewing blog in months. Wow.

Anonymous said...

magnifique manteau, superbe travail,et le résultat une parfaite réussite bravo
Christine

Lisbei said...

Hello my dear Isabelle !
You can be proud of you, your coat is wonderful. I love the fabric, the colour is beautiful.
I think today I will (one more time) watch Pride and Prejudice, I'm really willing to since I watch Jane.
Big kisses for you, Seb and the fluffy beauty (or may I say "inspectrice des travaux finis, en cours et à venir" ...).

Tany said...

Isabelle, you really outdone yourself with this spring coat!!! I LOVE IT!! It's so well made and it suits you beautifully! A+++ for this one!
Many hugs from a very hot and sunny Portugal (finally!)

Beadiful Things said...

That is gorgeous!

Tanya said...

Hi Isabelle,
That coat is beyond beautiful - what a talent you are blessed with. It is hard to believe a year has passed. Time moves fast and it is so hard to lose someone we dearly love so much; it doesn't get easier because the feeling of loss is always there but you have to know she is looking down on you and smiling BIG and so proud.

Hugs,
Tanya

Michelle said...

GORGEOUS! That coat is just amazingly beautiful. I love the fabric and the color, and the style of it! And how sweet to have amethyst jewelry to match!

Anonymous said...

Bonjour Isabelle,

Je reste une fidèle lectrice de ton blog ;-)
C'est une merveille ce manteau !!! Quelle excellente couturière tu es ! Bravo !
Olivia

Jenna said...

That's such a beautiful color of taffeta! You turned it into quite a work of art. Congratulations! It sounds like you put a lot of hard work into it and will get years of enjoyment out of it, as a result.

dawn said...

Isabelle, this is really beautiful!