Friday, June 01, 2007

The dress that shan't be worn

After yearning for the Hot Patterns Cosmopolitan dress for months, and finally caving in and buying it, I excitedly set about to make it as soon as I had received the pattern. I ran into several difficulties, some due to the fabric, others due to the pattern (or my use of it - I'm not saying the pattern is wrong, because truly, that design is beautiful and we have seen many stunning versions of it on the Internet. I think I'm wrong); I steadily worked on it last Sunday, and every evening this week.
Well, tonight, I feel like an abominable seamstress, with an impossibly wrong upper body.

I did several adjustments to the pattern, thanks to the heads up given by sewers at patternreview.com: the scoop neckline in particular was cut very low. (Special thanks to Cidell!) I raised the neckline, adjusted the back's width to fit my own back, which seems narrower than the norm. I patiently undid several seams... This, my friends, was a loooong and painstaking process in this fluid velour, where the small stretch stitches were virtually invisible and the thin fabric easily tearable.

Well; I'm sure you can all see what's wrong. The scoop neck is too wide, and the back rides up too high somehow. I made the mistake of applying facings instead of choosing an alternative finishing method. Now, I don't think I'll ever forget that facings are not the way to go with a knit! Lesson learned, I swear.

So, well. Maybe I was just too tired and distracted by sad news this week to make a good job with that dress. Honestly, unless a genius out there comes up with a magical solution, I don't think I'll ever wear that dress. I am frustrated because Seb adores this fabric and of course, I only had those two metres. It is a Roberto Cavalli fabric which I got for 4 euros a metre on a German website.

The only thing I can think of changing is the facings, but what should I do? My only clue right now would be to rip the facings (3 long seams, yikes) and bind the neckline: that would raise the neckline by 1,5cm, since the seam allowance would be up. But what with? Same fabric? Bias tape?
Do you talented sewers have any ideas that could make this dress wearable? I would be so grateful.


I still do love that pattern and I vow to make it again, this time in a woven fabric, and to try and find out what went wrong and how to fix it.
I do like the fit of the lower half of the dress; the waist ties were originally very long and meant to go around the body several times, but I realized the effet was a bit overwhelming on my 154-cm frame, so I cut the ties shorter and simply tied them in the back.
~*~
Why don't you see my face in the pictures today? Well, my grandmother is even worse, and since I got those distressing news I have been bursting into tears at any hour of the day and night. Trust me, friends, you just don't want to see my face right now.

I was about to post a blog giveaway, but now sense it is better to hold it out for a while. Also, please don't be surprised if I'm a little silent on your blogs in the days to come... This is a sad time for us.

38 comments:

Lili said...

Sorry for your gran. The faster, the better now...
No advice for sewing, sorry...
Big huge hugs.
Lili

Gaylen said...

Oh Isabelle - I'm so sorry to hear more bad news about your grandmother. I rather like the way the back neck looks - I think it looks like one of the cute jacket patterns around right now. I don't have the answer for fixing the neckline, hopefully someone else will. g

Tany said...

I'm so sorry to hear your sad news... Just hang in there and be strong, Isabelle. I will pray for you and your Granny every day.

BIG Hug from Portugal

KarenV said...

Isabelle, I'm so sorry that you've had more distressing news. I wish I could give you a big hug in person, but I'm afraid that the best I can offer is lots of cyber {{{{{{hugs}}}}}}}} and good thoughts for you and your family. I have been thinking of you a lot lately - take care of yourself and remember we are all here for you.

Summerset said...

Oh Isabelle, don't worry about the dress right now! You've got many more important things to think about. Go ahead and cry - it's normal albeit frustrating.

If you're going to worry about the dress, here are some things I'd do. Consider I haven't seen the dress in person, so you can take or leave the advice, I'm not offended. You can take off the facings if you want, but I'm not sure that's the best answer. Second, have you tried some vertical darts in the back neck area? That would snug the back neck in closer, but still give you the width through the back shoulder area. For the front, could you do either some darts or gathers center front, sort of like the center front of Simplicity 4076, Views C or D with the scoop neck? That would cut the width down, but again give you the room through the bust line.

Just some thoughts - I know it's difficult to concentrate when there are major changes going on in your life. Big Hugs!

BeckySC said...

((((((sending you much love and many hugs))))))))
Keeping you all in my thoughts and prayers my friend!

Redwitch said...

Sorry so to hear your distressing news Isabelle, you are in my thoughts.

I don't know anything about dress making I'm afraid, but I think Summerset is right, if you put it to one side for a while the next time you return to it inspiration may strike and you will hopefully be in a better place to tackle any fitting problems.

Be kind to yourself now {{hugs}}

Vonna said...

Oh dear Isabelle...I'm so sorry for you and know well the pangs you are feeling. Please know that you are in my thoughts and prayers along with your family and your dear grandmother.

dawn said...

I'm sorry about your gran, Isabelle. You needn't hide your face from us though...you're always beautiful.

As to your dress (if you need something distracting to do)... I like the idea of a self-fabric binding or even "ribbing" band to add some width in the front neckline.

What I'd try is to cut the back neck down a bit. Then I'd cut the binding the same length as the neckline. I'd baste it on, stretching slightly as I do. that will draw up the neckline a bit. Then when you get to the end of going around, you'll have some binding length left over (b/c you stretched it) that you can cut off. With basting, you can experiment a bit with how much to stretch it.

You could even do the darts in the back as suggested by Summerset, then use the binding technique. You can take more out of the back in a less obvious way that way.

Sending warm thoughts your way.

Michelle said...

Big hugs to you, my thoughts are with you. I hope that someone can give you some advice on the dress, it is a gorgeous fabric. I'm here for you if you need anything.

lena-lou said...

Dear Isabelle I am so sorry to hear of your Grandmothers further detioration and understand your distress, I am sending warm thoughts your way :)

I think A LOT looks good about your dress...would it not help if you could...to lift it from the top shoulder seams taking more from the front best you can without making the armholes too tight and then adjust the back neck-line as/if needed, did you compensate the back neckline pieces for narrowing the back panels? I have to lift alot of my things and DD's from the shoulders and same as you seem to have a very narrow back. Obviously ignore what I am saying if it is not appropriate as I unfortunately cannot see the garnment IRL. If you can sort it out when your mind is clearer it is going to be a beautiful dress...I wish you luck and to have a nice weekend if you can.

Carla said...

So sorry about your grandma Isabelle.

Dawn said...

((hugs)) So sorry this is a sad time for you.

Carol said...

Isabelle, I have to say anything looks good on you!!! I am no expert, so I did not see anything too terribly wrong. But you cannot wear something you are not comfortable in. I am so sorry about that...and your sad news. Prayers to you and I hope things get better soon!!

coonie said...

Sorry, no advice for sewing, you know it's not something I'mgood at...

Keeping you all in my thoughts and prayers my friend!

{{{{{sending you much love and many hugs}}}}}

Tracy said...

Oh, Isabelle, I'm so very sorry about your grandmother...Know that more prayers are coming for her, you & your family. Cry, if that's all you can manage, just cry. Sometimes that's all that helps. And that's ok. It's all good! But your dress--it's really quite good! I'm no sewing expert, I try though. But I'm with what Lena-Lou said above, what about somehow lifting it at the shoulders. I've done that with sleeveless tops, and more simply constructed blouses & dresses. Darts at the back is also a good idea. It might "pull it in" at the back and help the neckline sit more comfortably. And doing the darts might be easier than disassembling the whole bodice. Very interesting dilemma. Let us know how it turns out and what solution you use. Gook luck! ((HUGS)) :o)

Christine Doyle said...

I'm afraid my sewing skill isn in making straight lines - that's it! I hope you can fix the dress so you are more comfortable in it. My thoughts are with you and your family, my friend. {{{hugs}}}

Wendy said...

Sorry about this very sad time for you, dear Isabelle. As the others have said, be gentle on yourself right now and listen to what your body tells you it needs. {{[hugs}}}

Barbara said...

Sending you hugs and more hugs. I'll even throw in some very sticky but healing hugs from our wee beasties.

floresole said...

Je suis vraiment navrée pour ta grand-mère, Isabelle. J'imagine qu'aucun mot ne viendra t'aider.
En attendant, je pense bien à toi et à ta famille.

stitcherw said...

I'm so sorry to hear your grandmother is doing worse, I know that you had hoped that it would not be so. Sending warm thoughts and {{hugs}} your way.

As to your dress, I don't sew, so can't help on ideas. To me it looks fine in the pictures. However, if it doesn't feel right to you then why not set it aside for a bit until other things resolve themselves a bit. If you put it away for awhile and come back to it later you may have a fresh way of looking at it and different ideas.

Again {{hugs}} my friend,
Sue

Zoanna said...

Dear Isabelle, I am so, so sad about your grandmother. How heartbreaking to see her like that. You'll remain in my prayers.

Meanwhile, I'd hang the dress in the closet till sunnier days come. You might find inspiration when and where you least expect it, but right now even easy solutions may be eluding your mind. I'm not a garment maker: my suggestions would probably make you laugh.

Lauren said...

Oh, {{{Isabelle}}}. I don't know what to say - except that it's OK to cry. Take as much time off as you need; we will all be here when you're ready to come back. You and your family will continue to be in my thoughts and prayers.

Tini said...

Isabelle, letting someone go is always hard but as others mentioned, crying helps and the sureness that the person will always stay in your heart. When my Granny passed away a couple of years ago, we all sat down at her bed, said good bye and told her, that we would let her go and that she would remain in our hearts forever. She was very ill and very frightened, all the things that happend to her when she had to flee from home and came into capture came back. I think she felt safe after our "talk" altough she wasn't concious anymore and died 2 days later.

As for the dress: I don't think that lifting the shoulders would have the desired effect but would go for darts as summerset suggested. As for alterations, do you have a round upper back? That would also explain the wrinkles at the shoulders.
Plus I hate to work with velour too :)

1000 hugs!!!

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

Isabelle, I too am sorry to hear that your grandmother is not doing well. My prayers and thoughts will be with you during this trying time!

Ruth Rachel Vendsel said...

Isabelle, so sorry to hear about your grandmother. I will be thinking of you and praying for your family. You take all the time you need and don't feel a bit guilty about not leaving comments - everyone understands that.

I am in awe of your sewing skills and hope some day to be able to do basic garments. I think the dress looks fantastic! But I understand that you're not happy with it. Still, I think you did a beautiful job and I hope you can fix it to your liking.

Praying for you and hugs,
Rachel

Lisbeï13 said...

My dear little friend.
I think maybe sewing, and writing, is a good think to keep your head up in those sad times.
Kisses from all of us, for you and your family.

Hala said...

my lovely Isabelle I am terribly sorry to hear ahout the deterioration of your Grandmothers health ,don't cry too much my dear , just pray for her that she won't suffer, i know it is difficult but that is the cycle of life .Big hugs my dear..

as for the dress , and am not a pro of sewing i knida like it this way , i like wide neckline but maybe you can add some dentelle in the inner side of the neckline? could be nice..

Claire said...

Isabelle - hugs to you and prayers regarding your grandma. The tips from Sommerset and Dawn sounded right to me. I also like the slightly wider scoop neck, but that's me. If it feels uncomfortable to you, or too revealing, then you must make it how you like it. Have you thought of adding a little cream antique lace trim? I've seen that on some necklines and it's quite sweet, but might not be the effect you are going after.

Jamie said...

Isabelle, I'm sorry to hear that your grandma is doing worse. My deepest thoughts and prayers are with you and your family. Many, many hugs and warm thoughts.

As for the dress, I love it. I see what you are talking about and hopefully one of the pointers already given will help you love it too!

Vicki said...

Sending hugs and prayers your way!

For your dress, I had the same idea as Dawn. Or could you just stitch some clear (or even not clear) elastic between the facing and the dress to pull it in closer to the body? Keep with it as it is looking good :))

cidell said...

I'm sorry about your grandma too. I hope that your sewing and other crafts keep you heart a little lighter.

I'm also sorry the dress isn't workin out for you. The fabric is beautiful and I do think it's salvedgeable.

Barbara said...

Take care Isabelle!

Patty said...

I'll be thinking of you, Isabelle. I'm so sorry to hear about your granny.
take care.

Tiger Feet said...

I would try wearing a really pretty top underneath the dress, maybe something in a thin delicate fabric, with a more modest neckline that echos the shape of the dress...

Christine said...

I don't know if it would help, but perhaps you could try a series of pintucks radiating out from the neckline at the front?
I also agree with the suggestion of dats at the back.

whitecalla said...

My prayers for you...and family.
Sorry I can't offer my opinion here for the dress when it comes to technical. Hoped you will find a solution to it.
Hugs and take care of yourself Isabelle.

Anonymous said...

I'm sorry to hear about your grandmom.. She seems like a great lady. Would you write someday about her and share her with us..

About the dress.. well, can you insert some lace strategically? Would that work?

Or maybe, some darts from neckline?

Or maybe both.. remove facings and try a few darts and then jazz it up with some delicate lace..