Monday, November 02, 2009

New Look 6470, Takes 4 and 5

Hello, everyone!

The following projects are probably from late September. I can't remember exactly. My brain is sometimes turned to mush because of overworking. That is the case at the moment.

NewLook 6470, views A & E
The top tends to fall off from the shoulder a little. I need to figure a way to attach the shoulders to my bra straps. What's the neatest way to do this, do you think?
Here is a better picture of the skirt, from the same pattern.

Thanks to Julie for the picture! :)
(Coincidentally, the purple top shown above was made using the same pattern envelope a year ago.)
I made this skirt because I really don't have enough, and I needed a quick project.
I really like the flounce; I really don't like the elastic at the waist. A zipper would have been much neater and given a smoother waist line; but I didn't have time to alter the pattern, and I needed my sewing fix, quick.
I do like  the skirt, nonetheless. I've worn this exact outfit to teach (with the addition of a little make-up. The picture was taken on a laid-back, no-make-up Sunday).

I've never used a pattern that much before. Here are creations 1, 2, and 3 from this pattern. Creations 4 & 5 are above.

Oh! Here are pictures of the whole outfit that also show the sofa cover I made back in August. The landlady left a stunning leather sofa in the flat, and I made a cover for it within a week of my moving in - I was so scared of P'tite Mignonne using the tantalizing surface to sharpen her claws.

The fabric is from Ikea. I was missing about a metre, so the cover is not as well finished as I would like. Still, I'm pretty happy with it - and light grey/cream cat hair doesn't show on it! (the flat is decorated in black and white with red accents, but a black cover just wasn't an option with the furlady gracing this place.)


I believe I only have one project left in the backlog. Haven't sewn in weeks, and it sucks!

Hope you guys are all doing well and have more time to sew than I do.

Sunday, October 11, 2009

Fail Turned Favourite

Bonjour, bonjour ! :)


This tee-shirt is from NewLook 6470, and it is supposed to be a fail.

If you look at the pattern drawing (view D), the fit looks nothing like this. This top is supposed to hug the body. I surmise the knit fabric I used wasn't stable enough by a long run. This was a remnant from the bargain tables in front of Boeken's (same old favourite from my Amsterdam days).

When I tried on the top and saw how large (and indecent!) it was, I burst out laughing, and got ready to take it apart and start over with a smaller fit. Then I got to think that it might be cute to wear as an oversized top layered over a tank top.

The only problem was the armholes - way too wide and lanky. I remedied that by binding them with a stable black knit.

The single other alteration I did was to the front - I took the gathered side in at the top, to give the fabric a nicer drape. The initial version was really too droopy, even for a layered top.

The edges were hemmed on my coverstitch machine. I hadn't been able to take it to my previous flat in Paris, but this time my Dad secretly managed to fit it into the car before we drove South, and I had a lovely surprise upon unloading my stuff. :)

This was not what I had in mind at all, but it turns out I love this top, and I've been reaching for it time and again over the past two weeks when I want a casual look. I just feel - cute in it, even though I may look my age even less than usual.

This was the third time I used this pattern (the first two versions, view A and A/B, are here and there), and as you'll see shortly - I've used it twice more since! Using a pattern 5 times is a personal record - and to be honest, the envelope never even appealed to me (don't you guys agree the model looks decidedly dowdy?).

~*~
Have a good week, everyone! I just had the best weekend, and the week to come is bound to reflect all the good cheer.

Monday, October 05, 2009

The Summer Into Autumn Dress


Back in the day when I used to do embroidery, one of my favourite designs was Summer into Autumn, by the Drawn Thread. I loved everything about it - the rich colours, the threads used, the texture of the specialty stitches. But most of all the colours.
(I miss stitching, but the days are just too short, and stitching does not fit in with my current activities anymore. I used to stitch in front of English-speaking TV series. Maybe some day the right time will come again - days are short, but hopefully life is long :) )

When I first tried this dress on, I was instantly reminded of the above-mentioned design.

Simplicity 3678, with optional kitty
(Funnily enough, the dress also matches the beautiful mosaic that constitutes the flat's tiled floor.)

I wanted a dress that I could wear on my first days of lectures and on a conference I attended just before classes resumed. A dress that was both fit for the summer weather that's been going on and on down here, but that still felt autumnal and hence constituted "back-to-school" material to my poor, North-oriented, psychorigid mind. ;)
The fabric comes from Boeken's in Amsterdam. I bought it a year ago, on my last stay there - it was beautiful, high quality (this dress only uses 1.5 meter but probably cost 18 euros to make), and therefore stayed in my stash long enough for inspiration to strike and for me to gain confidence in cutting into the fabric. Karen just wrote a great post about this exact feeling.

I used this pattern almost two years ago. Funny how changes in the length, sleeves, neckline and the overall outfit make the two versions utterly different.
The pattern once again came together easily and beautifully. This is from the Threads collection, so extra attention was paid to details. I still hold by my review of the first version.
My only change was the addition of a back tie to help cinch the dress a bit.
I hemmed the dress by hand with an invisible stitch. I love the way it makes the hemline hang - not just visually, but also in the way the dresses falls on me.

Oh, and just as for the maxi dress - here is a picnic pic :)

It is better to see these clothes in action than just see me standing uneasily still in front of a tripod, isn't it? ;)

Have a good week, everyone. :)

Friday, October 02, 2009

A long black dress for the end of summer

(For some reason Blogger is making my pictures all blurry upon upload, so I'm using Photobucket today)

Bonjour, bonjour !
I'm glad you guys thought I could wear long dresses, because - here is another one. :) This one isn't quite long enough to be classified as a maxi, but it's still ankle-length.

This dress was pretty work- and thought-intensive. It all started when I spotted the fabric during my first visit to a fabric shop in Montpellier. That crinkled black cotton screamed it wanted to be a long, flowing dress.

Now, I usually don't "do" black dresses in the summer because I usually remain very pale, and black obviously emphasizes it. I avoid the sun as much as possible because my skin just doesn't like it - it usually burns before it gets to tan ever so little. This year, though, no matter how careful I was, I just couldn't help getting some sun exposure. Montpellier is the sunniest city in France, and I arrived right in the middle of summer. However, I was super careful in that I didn't go out during the most scorching hours of the day, and I slathered myself with sunscreen. For the first time ever, I got a gradual tan (mostly from evening sunlight), but I didn't burn.
I am still way lighter-skinned than most people here, but I felt I could sport a black dress for the end of the summer, when the days weren't quite as sweltering and black wouldn't feel too hot against the skin.

I had a very precise idea of the dress I wanted. Empire waist but with a deep midriff section to avoid any ballooning effect; a V-neckline and large straps; two layers of fabric in the skirt (which would have otherwise been see-through), one being shorter than the other.
After a good deal of thinking and hesitating (and obsessing), I ended up using bits of different patterns to have the dress match my idea. To create the bodice, I combined Simplicity 3803 (with which I made my first maxi) with Newlook 6774. I also used NL 6774, with alterations, for the bodice back, midriff and skirt. (I made a first dress out of this pattern last year - another dress that got a lot of wear this summer; every time I put it on, I thought I really should re-use that pattern.)
I added a slit to the back of the skirt for added fullness and movement at the front.
I did a rolled hem on my serger. It seemed to me the easiest and probably prettiest option for a fabric that was both sheer and crinkled.

Because the fabric is crinkled, see-through and so flimsy, I decided to underline the bodice with cotton voile. The bodice being lined, I ended up therefore with 4 layers of fabric. I like the hang this gives the bodice - especially the back. It's amazing how adding some extra support will enhance the look of a garment and give it a classier style.

The added puff of the crinkles probably makes me appear a bit fatter, but oh well. I should have made the midriff entirely out of cotton voile, but when I realized this all the seams were serged and there was a high risk at this stage of ruining the dress instead of improving it. I guess I can live with it. :)


***
And that's it for now... No more pictures in my backlog.
I still need to take pictures of and review:
  • another dress (Simplicity 3678)*
  • a couple of tops (New Look 6470, view A/C and view D)
  • a skirt (again from NL 6470).
  • almost forgot - another retro dress, Butterick 5214. Love that one!
Right... I'd better set up that tripod soon. ... As soon as I've finished the oodles of stuff I have to do for my classes. Life has been just a wee bit busy lately.

* Am I the only one annoyed at the way Simplicity redesigned their website? Browsing through their patterns is so much more of a pain, and the URLs are not intuitive at all. I'll be linking to the PatternReview pages rather than the Simplicity/Newlook pages from now on.

Wednesday, September 23, 2009

My first Maxi Dress: Simplicity 3803

I long held back from making a maxi dress because I was afraid of looking completely swamped in one. But when my eye kept being caught by maxis while browsing pattern catalogues at Tissus Reine with my good friend Julie last June, I remembered Trena sported a maxi dress with success almost a year ago (Trena and I are about the same non-height). And I decided to give it a try.

I settled on Simplicity 3803 because I liked the shaped midriff (it isn't a mere rectangle as in so many dress-with-midriff-band patterns). This is a neat pattern, which provides you with a nicely finished inside, too (the bodice is fully lined).
I'm a bit disappointed you cannot see the lines better. You really can see the bodice shaping IRL, but the small floral print here gave the camera a hard time, I'm afraid.
This is another Liberty piece I bought at Shaukat on Old Brompton Road when I last was in London.
I wanted to add a ruffle at the bottom, as in view C, but I didn't have quite enough fabric - and I was determined to use this Liberty print.

Another reason I chose this pattern over others maxi dress patterns is that I found the keyhole opening in the back really classy. I loved Pirouette's version of this, and I'm a little disappointed mine doesn't show that well in the picture. Probably because I have a small back and I should have fitted the bodice back even more than I usually do? (I always go down two sizes in the back).

Hopefully it shows better when I'm wearing the dress in action, though, and moving in it, instead of pausing for a picture ;)
Oh, and I promise you the upper edges are actually even. Must have been the way I was standing in the picture.

I made this dress for a picnic I had with friends at the Buttes Chaumont late last June (just a couple of weeks before I left Paris). I figured a very long dress would be both pretty AND practical to sit down in the grass - and it was. Besides, the Liberty lawn gives the dress a fresh feel against the skin.

It's been 30-32°C here this week (mid to high 80s Fahrenheit), so you bet I'm still wearing summer dresses!

Monday, September 21, 2009

Vogue 8571 - the Navy Floral Dress

Hello, hello, everyone!

Thank you for your warm welcome back to the blogosphere! I've missed you all. I've started visiting your blogs and I've been loving all the wonderful creations you've been up to! I still have a looong list to go through, though. :)

Welcome to my new commenters as well! It's always nice and encouraging to see that people enjoy this blog.

I've been obviously quite busy with the term (and my new job!) starting, but I had written a few pattern reviews beforehand, so I can still update this blog on what should finally be a more regular basis. (Oh, and some time I shall put my act together and do a massive update on Pattern Review, too... I've been terribly remiss at posting my reviews up there.)


Today, here is Vogue 8571, a cute and casual little knit dress.

I was into making an easy, lightweight dress to wear during the dog days of summer (temperatures here in Montpellier reach easily 35°C (95°F) and above during the July and August).
The pattern was quite new, but the fabric had been sleeping in my stash for a few years.
As expected from the pattern lines, the dress came together easily and quickly. The only trouble that needed fixing was that the dress wasn't fitted enough for my taste, so I took in 1.5 cm (5/8") at each side seams.

I purchased this pattern for its shirred bodice – and I found it interesting that the shirring was both at the front and at the back. I like the look of the slightly pouffy back contrasted with a close-fitting waist.

I don't think the dress was intended to be this close-fitting at the waist, but at 5' (154 cm) I'm too small to pull anything threatening to look even remotely tent-like.

As you can see, I used a contrasting fabric for the neck band, and I don't regret this choice. It gives the dress a crisper look in my opinion – a bit of an edge.

The only other change was the hem - I did a rolled hem on my serger.

Let me tell you, this has been worn and washed a whole lot over the past two months.

~*~
I'll be back soon with other projects from this summer - but right now I need to fine-tune a class on Wordsworth, and hopefully get started on a knit top.

Have a good week, everyone!